Understanding Settings
The first thing most people see when they look at a ring is the central diamond or gemstone — and
that's how it should be! But when you're buying a special ring, you want to
understand everything about its construction and design. One of the most
important elements of a ring's design is the setting: how are the stones held
in place?
A ring's setting can be prominent and artistic or subtle and practically invisible. The first step
in deciding which setting is right for you is to consider which style appeals to
you aesthetically, and which type is most appropriate for the ring you're
buying.
Setting styles:
Solitaire
This style of setting showcases a single diamond or gemstone, with no accent stones around
it. The most common technique for mounting a solitaire is
prong setting.
Shop our selection of
solitaires.
Rings with side stones
Side stones, or accent stones, help complement the brilliant center diamond or gemstone. There
are endless variations on the use of side stones, but common techniques for
mounting side stones include channel settings and
prong settings.
Shop our selection.
Three-stone rings
 |
A popular choice for engagement or
anniversary rings, the three-stone setting carries a
very special meaning. Each diamond or gemstone represents the past, present and
future of your relationship. Three-stone rings are mounted with a variety of
setting techniques, prong settings being the most common.
Shop our selection of three-stone rings. |
Matching bridal sets
Some engagement rings can be paired with a
matching wedding band that wraps around the
center stone or fits against the engagement ring like a puzzle piece. These intricate designs come in many beautiful variations, from simple and
sophisticated to elaborate and dazzling. Shop our selection of
matching
bridal sets.
Setting techniques:
Bezel setting
A bezel setting is held in place by creating a metal frame around the circumference of the stone or
at it's girdle. It can wrap all the way around the stone or only partially
surround it, depending on the style of the ring. This type of setting is good
for protecting the thin edge of the stone (girdle) and often makes the stone
look larger. We also love it because it gives jewelry a very bold, modern look.
Invisible setting
Invisibly set gemstones sit very close together, with their metal setting hidden underneath —
so you see a continuous, uninterrupted surface of diamonds or gemstones. We
think this type of setting is a great way to showcase the brilliance of princess
cut diamonds, because there are no prongs or bezels blocking the light as it
enters and illuminates each stone.
Prong setting
 |
The most common type of setting, especially for solitaire rings, is the prong setting which holds your
stone securely while still allowing a good deal of light to enter your diamond or gemstone. To increase this effect, the center stone is sometimes raised
above the shank, to give it a larger, more important appearance, with only a suggestion of metal showing. |
In such a setting,
the prongs are attached to the central setting of a ring, known as the head or
basket. Each prong extends upward and outward from the head, gripping the
diamond with an arch at the top.
Prongs can be placed at four corners of a stone or at five or six points evenly spaced around the
stone. Other variations include V-prong setting which is used on marquise
and pear shape gemstones to protect the pointed tips from chipping or breaking.
Channel setting
In a channel setting, diamond(s) or gemstone(s) are set flush between two strips of metal
that holds them in place side by side with no additional prongs between the
stones. This type of setting protects the edge, or girdle, of the gemstone, and
is a very secure setting. Channel-set gemstones provide a smooth setting making
them less likely to get snagged on hair or clothing. We love channel-set
diamonds in an
anniversary band, or as accents to a dramatic
center stone in an
engagement ring.
Pavé setting
Pavé is French for "paved," and this is a technique for creating the appearance of a surface
entirely paved in gemstones. Many gemstones are fit into small holes and set
almost level with the surface of the ring, with no metal between them. We think
this gives a beautiful, luxurious effect to a ring — especially if you like a
lot of sparkle.
Cluster setting
When diamonds or gemstones are set close together in a group, the result is known as a cluster
setting. Sometimes the stones can be arranged in the form of a stylized flower,
or just in an abstract arrangement. Cluster rings are usually multi-level, with
considerable height above the hand. The arrangement of the stones can be open
and airy looking, or they may be more tightly arranged. Either way, we love
cluster settings for the way they deliver a lot of beautiful sparkle at a
surprisingly affordable price.
Bar setting
Similar to a channel setting, a bar setting uses a thin bar of u- or v-shaped metal to hold diamonds
or gemstones in place on two sides. When there is a series of stones set next
to each other using this technique, you will see a narrow bar between each one.
Tension setting
This sleek, modern
setting uses pressure to hold a stone between two open ends of a metal mounting,
creating the illusion that the stone is floating. This setting is a beautiful
choice for any bride-to-be who appreciates modern, cutting edge style.
Illusion setting
A type of prong setting, this technique adds a faceted, shiny metal plate around the girdle of a diamond or gemstone.
The reflective plate makes the stone appear larger and more brilliant.
