A woman wearing different fashion and bridal jewelry.

Jewelry metals guide

Types of jewelry metals

At Helzberg, our experts think about more than the way a metal looks when they craft a piece of fine jewelry. Will you wear it every day or every now and then? Should it be delicate or durable? From cost and comfort to the way it complements the color of a stone, the choice of metal ensures your jewelry will fit perfectly in your story.


This guide to understanding jewelry metal types will help you decide between a gold or platinum setting for an engagement ring — and you’ll find out what metals to look for when you’re investing in an heirloom or showing off your personal style.

Gold jewelry types

Gold has a lot going for it: It’s beautiful and valuable. It doesn’t tarnish, oxidize or corrode. It’s malleable enough for artists to work into beautiful shapes — but that’s also a literal weakness. Its purest form, 24K gold, is too soft for everyday wear, so it’s mixed with other metals, called alloys to make it stronger and ensure it lasts for a lifetime.

Gold karat comparison

Gold purity — also called “fineness” — is measured in karats. (Not to be confused with carats, which measure a gemstone’s weight.) Mixing gold with other metals affects its durability, color and cost, so you can choose the perfect combination to fit your needs. Here’s the math behind the different degrees of gold fineness.

18K Gold

75% pure: 18 parts gold + 6 parts other metals. 
 18K gold has the richest color and longest-lasting luster, making it ideal for statement pieces. The higher purity means a higher investment in both cost and care.

14K Gold

58.3% pure: 14 parts gold + 10 parts other metals.
 The percentage of alloys in 14K gold makes it very popular for its durability, beauty and value. The combination also gives it a paler yellow color.

10K Gold

41.7% pure: 10 parts gold +14 parts other metals.
 10K gold is the most budget friendly and the toughest. It’s especially worth considering if your everyday world is a little rough and tumble.

Gold karat comparison

Gold purity — also called “fineness” — is measured in karats. (Not to be confused with carats, which measure a gemstone’s weight.) Mixing gold with other metals affects its durability, color and cost, so you can choose the perfect combination to fit your needs. Here’s the math behind the different degrees of gold fineness.

18K Gold

75% pure: 18 parts gold + 6 parts other metals. 18K gold has the richest color and longest-lasting luster, making it ideal for statement pieces. The higher purity means a higher investment in both cost and care.

14K Gold

58.3% pure: 14 parts gold + 10 parts other metals. The percentage of alloys in 14K gold makes it very popular for its durability, beauty and value. The combination also gives it a paler yellow color.

10K Gold

41.7% pure: 10 parts gold +14 parts other metals. 10K gold is the most budget friendly and the toughest. It’s especially worth considering if your everyday world is a little rough and tumble.

Gold colors

Gold typically comes in 3 different colors: white, yellow and rose gold. Let’s talk tones.

A platinum emerald cut three stone engagement ring with a platinum emerald cut eternity band

Platinum

Platinum is the rarest, most valuable, strongest and purest of the precious metals. It’s also naturally white, tarnish-free and hypoallergenic. So it’s also the most expensive, but the cost comes with very little downside. Platinum never needs to be re-plated. Even the patina it develops over time – a satiny finish resulting from microscopic scratches – is considered part of its story. (Your Helzberg jeweler can polish platinum jewelry to restore its original shine if you prefer.)

More popular metals

Meaningful jewelry comes in metals of all different shades, strengths and sheens. For jewelry to express your style, mark special occasions, and give to your favorite people, try sterling silver or vermeil. Both are high-quality, long-lasting and affordable alternatives to gold and platinum.

Alternative metals & materials

Here are some different metals and materials you may not have heard of yet. Men’s jewelry is increasingly an essential element of their wardrobe, and they’re expressing themselves more in their wedding band designs. Alternative metals and materials come in a wide range of appearances, strength and affordability. Talk to a Helzberg expert about your priorities — some super-durable metals can’t be resized.

Titanium is three times stronger than steel and one-third the weight of gold. It’s scratch- and crack-resistant, hypoallergenic and requires zero maintenance — nice qualities for someone with an active lifestyle. Helzberg offers a wide range of men's wedding rings in titanium, with a variety of finishes, designs and colors. One is Benchmark black titanium, a rare, solid black alloyed metal. Titanium wedding rings also tend to be a cost-effective choice for couples on a budget.

This isn’t your appliance-grade stainless steel: Stainless steel jewelry is composed of iron alloy and a minimum of 10.5% of chromium, and most commonly available in a light, silvery gray. Helzberg’s collection of stainless steel jewelry includes bands, watches, bracelets, chains and pendants, and earrings in an assortment of styles and settings. Stainless steel jewelry is durable, low-maintenance, and affordable.

Named for the capital city of Syria, Damascus steel refers to the forged wootz crucible steel used in the creation of blades and swords from ancient times. Modern Damascus steel jewelry is made by forging layers of contrasting metals in an artistic process that results in stunningly complex patterns.

Crafted from one of the rarest and most resilient metals, tantalum is known for its dark gray tone, substantial heft, and smooth, matte finish, though it can be polished to a glossy luster. Tantalum is more malleable than many alternative metals, making it easier to resize; but it’s strong and resists scratches and corrosion, so your Helzberg band or signet ring will last a lifetime.

Also known as cobalt chrome, this bright white metal is strong enough for use in jet engines and hypoallergenic enough for surgical tools. Cobalt is an affordable alternative to platinum or white gold and won’t shatter, tarnish or need re-plating. Helzberg’s collection features a variety of band and signet ring designs in both white and black cobalt.

Crafted from one of the rarest and most resilient metals, tantalum is known for its dark gray tone, substantial heft, and smooth, matte finish, though it can be polished to a glossy luster. Tantalum is more malleable than many alternative metals, making it easier to resize; but it’s strong and resists scratches and corrosion, so your Helzberg band or signet ring will last a lifetime.

You’d never know an Elysium ring started out as a handful of diamond crystals. Once they’re compressed under a million pounds of pressure and heated to about 2700°F, they form a black, 100% diamond ring form that can be shaped and polished into a variety of styles. Elysium makes the hardest, most scratch-resistant jewelry on the planet.

When you want to answer the question, “Where did you get your ring?” with “Outer space,” you’ll need one made of meteorite. Because it’s crafted from a chunk of an actual iron meteorite, it will be expensive. Since the high iron content makes it susceptible to rust, it will need extra care. But it’s the start of a great story.

A Helzberg associate ready to answer any questions.

WHAT’S THE BEST METAL FOR YOUR JEWELRY?

Talk to an expert

Since 1915, Helzberg jewelry experts have kept up with wedding traditions and changing styles. We’ll listen to your wants and needs and help you compare metals (and gemstones, settings and designs) to make the best choice for you.

Silver is a soft, lustrous, white transition metal valued for its electrical conductivity and decorative beauty. Sterling silver only contains 92.5% silver. The rest is usually made up of copper or some other metal.

Platinum is a lustrous, malleable, silvery-white, ductile metal. It is considered one of the transition metals, a group that includes silver, gold, titanium and copper.

Sterling silver is less durable than white gold, which usually comes with a higher price tag.

Stainless steel resists wear, dings, dents and scratches better than platinum. That said, while modern stainless steel jewelry can be very attractive, platinum jewelry still maintains a superior visual appeal and a higher monetary value.

When it comes to durability, titanium is much harder than platinum. It doesn't scratch, damage or easily lose its shape.