Guide to diamond shapes

We’ve met a lot of couples in our 100+ years — each with their own unique love story. Think of this page as your short-cut to our best information and advice to help you find the perfect engagement ring. And, of course, you can schedule an online or in-store appointment with one of our jewelry experts whenever you’d like. 

A video of an assortment of engagement rings of all diamond shapes on display.
Picture of an round diamond engagement ring on hand.

step 1

Consider your budget

There’s no rule about how much an engagement ring should cost — really. (That 3 month’s salary thing is old news.) You know your life, your priorities and your dreams, and that’s what really matters. Whatever budget you land on, there’s a ring that’s right for you — and we’ll help you find it.

A Helzberg solitaire engagement ring with a yellow  gold band.

step 2

Learn the basics about diamonds

As you begin looking at diamond engagement rings, a working knowledge of the 4C’s will help you choose a stone and setting that’s right for you. You’ll get to decide between a lab grown or natural diamond. Or maybe you’re inspired by the way a gemstone fits your style or story. Find out what matters when selecting gems for your forever ring.

step 3

Choose the shape of your diamond

Besides the classic round brilliant cut diamond — the one people think of when they picture a proposal — you can choose from lots of fancy shapes. And yes, that’s what we call oval, princess, cushion, emerald, marquise, pear and other diamonds. See them all, and find out the difference between shape and cut.

Helzberg engagement ring featuring an elongated cushion-cut center diamond with round diamond accents on a gold band, paired with a matching diamond wedding band.

step 4

Fall in love with a ring style

An engagement ring’s design reflects the wearer’s personal style and affects how comfortable it will be to wear. Learn about the difference between styles and settings, why metals matter and how to get the right-sized ring for your partner.

Close-up of a hand wearing a yellow gold engagement ring with an oval-cut diamond center stone, paired with a matching yellow gold wedding band featuring a row of round diamonds.

MODERN ROMANtic

Oval

This versatile engagement ring shape holds the spotlight in any setting, from vintage-inspired to the latest styles. Its elongated form makes the oval diamond shape look bigger than shapes with the same carat weight and has a lengthening effect on the finger. Try an on-trend twist with an east-west setting.

A white gold engagement ring featuring a pear-shaped diamond center stone with round diamond accents along the band.

UNIQUELY ELEGANT

Pear

Combining the best features of the round and marquise shapes, pear-shaped diamonds are stunning in settings from minimalist solitaires to elaborate halos to vintage designs. With one end perfectly pointed and the other gracefully rounded, the asymmetrical pear shape requires excellent craftsmanship. You choose whether to wear the point up or down — it’s beautiful both ways.

Close-up of a hand wearing a white gold engagement ring with a marquise-cut diamond center stone and a band accented with baguette diamonds.

DAZZLE AND DRAMA

Marquise

The marquise diamond started with a story: inspired by his lover’s perfect lips, King Louis XV commissioned this unique shape in the mid-1700s. Its elongated shape has more visible surface area than other cuts of the same weight, enhancing the finger-lengthening effect and creating the illusion of a larger diamond. The marquise shape is brilliant cut for sparkle and the pointed tips give it dramatic flair.

A radiant cut diamond engagement ring with a yellow gold band.

exceptional brilliance

Radiant

Aptly named radiant-cut diamonds combine the sophistication of emerald shapes with the audacious sparkle of brilliant cuts. Its facets help hide inclusions, so this shape is also known for remarkable beauty and value. Radiant diamonds are cut in square and head-turning rectangular shapes to fit a multitude of styles. Prong-style solitaire settings bring out their brilliance.

Close-up of a hand wearing a yellow gold engagement ring featuring a heart-shaped diamond center stone.

in love with love

Heart

Unapologetic romantics adore a heart-shaped diamond — the unmistakable symbol of true love. Balancing symmetry and maximizing brilliance takes expert craftsmanship, so the right ring style will showcase the heart shape and protect its delicate point. Whether you prefer a whimsical look, something sweet or going loud and proud, consider a prong or bezel setting.

White gold engagement ring featuring an Asscher-cut diamond center stone set on a sleek, polished band.

ARCHITECTURAL INSPIRATION

Asscher

Designed in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, this geometric, step-cut shape was popularized by the Art Deco design movement. The Asscher’s X-shaped facets and deep, dimensional profile draw the eye inward with their hypnotic hall-of-mirrors effect. Heighten the effect with a three-stone setting or set it off in a solitaire.

Frequently Asked Questions

Step 5

Go shopping with confidence

Now comes the fun part. Use what you’ve learned to browse different stones and styles online or play around with your own custom designs. 

The facets of brilliant-cut diamonds, including round, princess and radiant shapes, are designed to maximize brightness, fire and scintillation. Marquise, pear and oval cuts combine brilliant facet patterns with unique shapes.

Shapes with more surface area, such as oval, pear and marquise shapes, look bigger than other shapes with similar carat weights. Rectangular emerald and radiant-cut diamonds, with their trimmed corners, also appear larger.

Rectangular and elongated diamonds can have slimming, lengthening effects on the finger. Consider emerald and radiant cuts, elongated cushion cuts, and  oval, pear and marquise diamonds.

Fancy shapes with pointed ends are more prone to cracking and chipping than others. Choosing a V-prong, bezel or halo setting can protect the vulnerable points on a marquise, pear, princess or heart-shaped diamond.

Helzberg jewelry expert standing at a counter wearing a dark blazer with a round gold pin.

WE’RE HERE TO LISTEN

Talk to a jewelry expert

Bring your partner or start your own fact-finding mission. You can ask questions, see a selection of your favorite designs or examine diamonds up close with our powerful microscopes. Our experts are here to answer all your engagement ring questions.

Education series